Cultural Section: The Fowl on our Table

In this issue, let us look at something more commonplace and homely, something we often see on our dinner table – namely, the chicken. Instead of reviewing the scholarly and academic symbolism of roosters in Chinese culture, let us look at some of the interesting allusions associated with the serving of this particular fowl

In old times, when lives were less luxurious, having meat at a meal was a rare treat. To have chicken for dinner was a feast. This memory is somehow passed down through the generations and even today, chicken is an important festive dish.

The serving of chicken is a must on all special occasions, including birthdays, New Years, weddings, new births and rituals. Most notable is the ‘crispy fried chicken’ of southern China. Its full Chinese name includes the term ‘made red’ because the skin is fried to crispy red. As red is the auspicious colour for Chinese, this particular dish is a standard for all special occasions, like turkey is for Christmas. The name of this dish has also become a metaphor for people that are ‘in favour’. For example, celebrities that are in the spotlight or the manager’s most trusted subordinate.

In contrast, the ‘white cut chicken’ – another well-known Southern dish – is a definite no for special occasions. This is because the colour white is often associated with funeral proceedings. Even when paying respect to the deceased, some people would rather make offerings of a more colourful chicken dish. The fowl must be served in its entirety, especially on special occasions. Hence, you often see in Chinese restaurants dishes of fowl and fish served with the heads attached. ‘Completeness’ is considered a virtue. Only when things are incomplete or in parts will problems arise.

Some decades back in Hong Kong, there was an interesting convention in the business world using chicken. At the customary New Year dinner, where the employer invited all his employees, a chicken dish would be served as tradition dictated. If the employer served a chicken drumstick to one of his employees, he was subtly saying, ‘Thank you for this year’s hard work but you are fired!’ That was known as the ‘heartless chicken’.

Tin-Yu Lam

Hong Kong